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| Tony's Tips |
ARTICLE DATE: 09/01/2007 |
| Marine Fuel Filtration - "The Seaboard Way" |
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| Tips for Your Selection of a Fuel Filter System |
In all cases, regardless of how one decides to set up
fuel filtration system, give these ideas / fuel system tips some thought, or
keep them for future reference... And if someone has a few ideas to add, please
don't be shy as this is one of the main premises behind these forums "sharing
information and ideas so all can benefit".
A few pointers below to help YOU make the right decisions....
1) It's always best to either draw your
fuel from the bottom of the tank (you want the crap in your filters and not
sitting in the bottom waiting to get stirred up in the first bad weather),
OR have a drainable fuel tank sump, OR BOTH.
2) Be sure the fuel lines, valves and fittings that feed your
filters do not restrict the flow or allow air to enter the system. Choosing
the next size of filter in capacity ratings will assure you of a longer time
between clogging.
3) A vacuum gage installed just before a fuel lift pump will
more that pay for itself if installed correctly and its operation is understood
by the operator. The use of a vacuum gage adds "science" as to when to change
your filters. |
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| Easy
View Vacuum Gages |
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4) An in-line sight glass or clear piece of vinyl hose (temporary)
installed in the fuel line is one of the best tools for addressing fuel / air
leaks in a fuel system when troubleshooting .
5) Always be sure the filters you choose to use are sized
in stages with the largest capacity and nominal mic rating closer to the fuel
tank. "Multi-Stage", remember??
6) Be sure your "return fuel system" cannot be shut off when
switching tanks or at any time during engine operation.
7) If the engine fuel system design allows the use of a submerged
return line, consider this as a worthwhile addition to the fuel system. But,
also read your engine installation requirements as not all systems recommend
this, although MOST DO.
8) Fuel transfer: With multiple tanks and the need to transfer
fuel with an electric pump, putting an old fashion type spring wound timer
w/ normally open electrical contacts ( available thru many home improvement
stores and industrial supplies) will save you from the many embarrassments
that typically occur by pumping fuel into the bilge or overboard due to overfilling.
I rarely recommend using return fuel for fuel transfer because of typical flow
rates above 60 GPH in many cases, it is easy to "forget" about the valve you
messed with a hour ago. We prefer using a 12 VDC electric pump with flows around
30-50 GPH with a fuel filter on the suction side of the pump (FF5013), w/ 60
minute timer. Not only will you not forget, you will be "polishing" your fuel
in the best way - with the boat "rocking and rolling". Need 50 gallons moved
from port to starboard?? Just the right twist and your done !!
9) If you really want to know what type of ugly stuff is in
your fuel tank and how good your filters are really working, cut open your
"on-engine" spin-on and take a look. This is the one method that will let an
operator really find out what is getting thru to his last chance filter on
the engine. Cutting open filter in your Primary system, will tell you what's
really in the fuel tank.
10) If you have "Racor Phobia", but tired of the mess having
to take apart your Racor Bowl to clean it out, put a bulk separator spin-on
in front of it. You'll be amazed a year down the road at the difference.
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| Multi-Stage
with Racor's and fuel transfer polishing system |
Simple
and very effective upgrade for Racor's - Adding a bulk separator as the
primary |
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11) Be sure none of your fuel tank vent lines contain a "low
spot" - you want them to drain completely when the boat is static or in motion.
If they can run forward and rise at the same time, this is always a better
choice for routing. With large wing tanks, it is usually best to vent on the
inside top and fwd edge of each tank. This allows the tanks to vent better
if the boat starts to heel during filling.
12) A properly installed sight gage on your fuel tanks is
the best assurance of knowing how much fuel you really have.
13) When building / designing a fuel system w/ many pipe thread
type fittings, manifolds, etc. consider the use of a 100% solids epoxy for
the "pipe dope". Many installations cannot tolerate even the slightest "sweat"
of diesel on a fitting. We started this practice about 15 years ago, and we
never get a "call back"... Grey "Marine Tex" and some Simpson (ET-22) products
do a great job and will never let you down, besides being easy to use and clean
up. |
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| "No
Diesel Sweat" - Fuel Manifold with 100% epoxied fittings / threads |
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| In closing, multi-step "Multi-Stage" filtration
is the most effective and simple way to protect modern diesels from the contaminants
found in fuel systems. To quote "Alaska Diesel," (you know, those Lugger and
Northern Light guys,) "Forcing fuel to go through even three separate, progressively
finer filters is cheap insurance.".... |
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| Multi-Stage
& John Deere / Lugger - Good Friends!! |
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Marine
Fuel Filtration - "The Seaboard Way" |
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